Fashion and sustainability. Everything you need to know about the new way of conceiving the clothing industry, from the socio-environmental impact to certifications.
We have been talking for many years about the protection of the planet and the protection of people, but today more than ever, it is necessary to apply these concepts to fashion, the second most polluting industry in the world. Transforming it into a more sustainable sector that includes both the principles of eco-sustainable fashion and those of ethical fashion.
Sustainable, eco-sustainable and ethical fashion. These three definitions are often used inappropriately due to very similar criteria within the supply chain, however there is a difference. Sustainable fashion aims to establish a harmonious relationship both with the environment and with people: in the first case it is inspired by eco-sustainable fashion and in the second by ethical fashion. But what are the practices of one and the other contained in the concept of sustainable fashion?
Reduction of toxic substances
To reduce the environmental impact of the traditional fashion industry, the commitment of some environmental associations is proving very useful. For example, Greenpeace’s fight against impactful practices in the textile and clothing sector began in 2011 with the “Dirty Cloths” initiative, when the presence of some toxic substances that were particularly harmful to the wastewater of factories in China. the environment and people. The groups of offending substances, still used today by many plants, were exactly eleven, namely alkylphenols, phthalates, brominated and chlorinated flame retardants, azo dyes, organic stannic compounds, perfluorochlorinated compounds, chlorobenzenes, chlorinated solvents, chlorophenols, chlorinated paraffins short chain and heavy metals such as cadmium, lead, mercury and chromium VI.
These are non-biodegradable substances which, therefore, with the washing of clothes, go to accumulate in the waste water causing considerable environmental damage. And as explained by the Global head of chemistry of UL (a company specialized in environmental and work safety), Anne Bonhoff, during an awareness summit aimed at the fashion sector, “the problem does not remain isolated exclusively to the supply chain, but also concerns the consumer who unknowingly continues to pollute the environment “.
Another risk factor determined by the use of these substances is bioaccumulation, which is the process through which they agglomerate on the skin causing the onset of serious diseases. In fact, there is legislation at European level that strictly limits its use as some of these are potentially carcinogenic or, in any case, act on the hormonal system by modifying it genetically. Going to interfere, therefore, with the regular sexual development of the organisms that have come into direct contact with it.
Detox and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) are two programs that, acting as guides for companies, have the ultimate goal of eliminating these substances from production by 2020. And in particular, ZDHC has created an online register where all the results of the analysis of wastewater from different plants are collected and compared with guide data, in order to educate the entire textile chain, from suppliers to producers, to greater transparency.
Brands that produce sustainable clothing
Thanks to the contribution of Greenpeace with its Detox campaign, today many brands and production plants have decided to adhere to this revolutionary vision: Benetton, Zara, H&M, Nike, Puma, Mango, Levi’s, Adidas, Valentino and the textile district of Prato are just some of the international protagonists of the clothing industry who are embarking on a corporate path aimed at sustainability.
In Italy there are also many realities that, in their own small way, try to implement in a responsible manner by sensitizing consumers on the importance of buying non-impacting clothes. These are small and medium-sized eco-sustainable clothing companies that invest in the research of new natural fabrics with high technological performance, reduce CO2 emissions and the use of water during the production process, resort to the use of clean energy and directly verify the good conduct of suppliers. Ensuring the total quality and reliability of the products.
Sustainable and ethical fashion
When we talk about sustainable and ethical fashion we cannot neglect the issues related to the poor working conditions to which employees of production factories in some areas of the world are subjected. Sustainability, in this sense, became an important issue in the early 90s when, for the first time, the exploitation of workers by some major fashion brands was discovered. To cite a few examples, in 1992 Levi’s was accused of not paying their employees adequately; in 1996, it fell to Nike who, despite its campaign against child labor, used minors to make some of its products; and in 1998 Adidas was also in the eye of the storm, accused of subjecting political prisoners in China to forced labor in exchange for a small sum of money. These are just some of the events, the list is still long if we consider the scandals that followed the birth of the fast fashion phenomenon, that is the fashion in which production occurs faster and at the lowest possible cost in order to ride the wave. of the trends of the moment.
In order to guarantee a more responsible fashion, also in this case, a certain transparency is required on the part of the companies, easily pursued with inspections conducted by the brands themselves in order to verify the working conditions in their production centers. And, moreover, providing consumers with all the information regarding the finished product through online communication and appropriate labels.
Fashion for the community
The particular attention to the working conditions of the workers in the production plants of the big brands is only one of the ethical aspects of this new fashion. Equally important are collaborations with humanitarian projects that aim to encourage the economic development of certain communities located in underdeveloped areas of the world.
In this regard, a case in point is that of the new sustainable fashion brand Iluut which supplies the leftovers of the production fabric to the Moroccan women of the Carpet of life organization, giving them the opportunity to make Berber carpets sold at fair prices.
Certifications for sustainable fashion
To certify the origin and nature of the materials used for sustainable clothing, there are also certifications issued by local or international entities that guarantee consumers the purchase of products made in full compliance with environmental and social sustainability standards.
Gots certification, Global organic textile standard
The Global organic textile standard (Gots) is a world leader in the definition of environmental and social criteria that must guide the production and processing of organic fibers, from harvesting to labeling of the finished product. Developed by a series of organizations operating in organic farming, Gots checks every single link in the textile supply chain with the aim of verifying the total absence of chemicals that do not comply with the basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability.
Ocs certification, organic content standard
Promoted by the Textile exchange association, which deals with identifying and sharing deserving realities within the textile and clothing industry, the Organic content standard (Ocs) certificate is a guarantee for consumers who intend to buy garments made with raw materials organic in nature. This is a validation of the content declared by the manufacturing fashion companies regarding the origin of natural fibers from organic farming and their traceability throughout the production process.
Grs certification, Global recycle standard
Global recycle standard (Grs) is a certification that is applied not only to products but also to manufacturing companies that use recycled materials in their creations. The certificate, developed by the Textile Exchange body and managed in Italy by Icea (Institute for Ethical and Environmental Certification), has in fact the task of demonstrating that the materials declared one hundred percent recycled have actually been obtained from waste processed through ecological processes.
Certificazione Fsc, Forest stewardship council
Specific for the forestry sector and for products derived from forests, woody and not, the certificate issued by the Forest stewardship council (FSC) certifies that the raw material used in the garment comes from forests managed in a responsible manner in full respect of workers , of the inhabitants and of the territory.
Our Future
Many are now convinced that the whole fashion world must undergo a process of change aimed at protecting people and the environment. And to prove it is also Carlo Capasa (president of the National Chamber of Fashion) who, during an interview released before the meeting “Crafting the Future of Fashion”, held in Milan, Italy on June 21st 2016, said: “Let’s talk about the future of fashion, that is what we imagine for the next generations, new brands and emerging designers, and sustainability as an integral part of the future “.
